Jesus teaches me to walk on water

8/18

Alternate Titles: The Young Man and the Sea, One Hour Professional, Bien Quemado, Rock and a Hard Place, Drink ‘til You’re Thirsty.

My day started 5 minutes before my alarm went off with an offer for breakfast. I grabbed some and hit the beach with a plastic bag containing sunscreen, 400 pesos, and a day old torta (sandwich) with a bottle of water. At 8 am I got to the beach and found that Jimmy wasn’t in. I moved down and found another shack that offered me the same deal for 50 more pesos but another hour with the board.

It’s a deal. My instructors name was Jesus and it was me, him and the waves for an hour. He taught me the one, two, three technique on the sand, once in the water and then out to the waves. I paddled out there and he would stand behind me and give me a push when the wave was coming in. I would wait a couple of seconds and then stand up. I caught the first wave and eased up like a pro, wiggled around for bit on the wave and then slid off. It was poetry.

I caught between 15-20 waves during the hour and was having a blast but like all dreams there is a wake up that leaves you alone to reality. I take a look around and paddle out to deeper waters.

Needless to say I went from being a one hour professional to a professional amateur. The short of it: I caught three maybe four waves the rest of the day. I learned a number of things during my day. First surfing involves a lot of sitting on your board waiting for the wave, you should put sunscreen on your knees, you should wear a shirt (so you don’t rub your chest raw, nipple coverings are especially important). I surfed for an hour and then would take a break, surf more, another break. A few things happened that were particularly unique.

I finally caught a wave but it was a bit too strong for me; I tried to stand but was quickly tossed, this is a problem because of the submerged rocks. I was fortunate having immediately assumed the fetal position while underwater to only have hit a rock relatively gentle with my knee suffering a very very very minor laceration. I went to take a break after this episode and contemplate my existence. After not coming up with anything to convincing I paddled out again. This time I caught another wave near the same area (remember right now I’m surfing, not thinking), and catch a monster that is way powerful. The problem is it had already broken when I grabbed it so it rocked my world when it hit, but I managed to hang on. At this point I quickly decided that I could not attempt to stand. So I summoned my boogie-boarding skill from years ago and weaved in out of the surfacing rocks, dodging left and weaving right. Narrow misses on both sides; I slid on and made my way to the beach for another contemplation session. This one had a bit more effect; I was resolute to stay away from the rocks or risk having by brains consumed by a sea urchin. During one of my contemplation session I saw one of the instructors catch a wave bringing it straight to the beach; he laid down and did a headstand facing out toward the ocean and then did the worm into the standing position. He held the headstand for a full two seconds; it was a solid and impressive performance.

Another reflection I had was that I am certain the ocean could take over the world if it wouldn’t undercut itself after every wave. I understand the power of God a bit more having been fully and completely handled by a wave. I think it is difficult to be humble when you have never been afraid. Today I am able to be more humble (and thankful) than yesterday.

My last ride I bailed and nearly hit someone, so I decided to call it a day; it was becoming to crowded and the waves were just too powerful. I left the beach around 5:30 and made it to the house by 6 exhausted and as one street vendor put it bien quemado (well burned). He also asked if I was German. During one of my contemplation sessions an American family came and was taking lessons one at a time. One of the mom’s came up to me and asked if I gave lessons. I had to be honest instead of making a quick peso. At least I’ve got the look I guess. There were quite few others with dreads.

An interesting note: I met a Frenchman while sitting out on the board waiting for a wave. We chatted a bit, but it was so strange to speak to someone via Spanish when it was neither of our native languages.

I made it back to the house, ate a couple of leftover breakfast burritos and watched the end of Madagascar 2 (the kids). Then they put in the movie Surf’s Up; it’s an animated film about surfing penguins, it is really entertaining though it was kind of salt in the wound to see penguins without hands flying around on boards, when I could barely catch a wave. Oh well. I think I’ll sleep-in in the morning.